I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). However, how far does that extend to? I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. These Tailors Are Doing It Anyway. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? Thank you very much for your assistance. Thanks for your reply Simon. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Im looking forward to commissioning a suit for my wedding next March. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. Thanks for your reply. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Simon. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Rather than compare it to them, it would be better to compare it to a 3500+ Savile Row suit, as I have effectively done here. As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? Free shipping for many products! From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Although I agree, Simon, about expecting no artists or artisans, tailors or otherwise, to takes bribes that stretch their natural styles beyond zones of comfort/ experience but with W & S I clearly wasnt asking too much. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. P.S. There is a lot of confusion about the difference between tailored and bespoke. So essentially the questions are: Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. As this can take a year or so? Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? Apparel & clothing. Interesting article. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Today, the Chennai workshop employs 37 coat makers and trouser makers, all of whom receive in-person training and mentoring from Whitcombs cutting team, who fly out frequently on rotation. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. If to compare, which make is most value for money? I have checked them out however note that: And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! how many weeks from measuring to first fitting, from first fitting to second fitting, etc. But when in 1760 Read More. B.) Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? I question, upon reflection, if you can go to Spain and Italy (and India via W & S) might we see a time when you take into consideration the many fine UK tailors at points outside of London. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. No, the style is different in other ways too. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Thanks very much. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Ill post pictures of the second one later, but there are so few differences that its barely worth pointing them out. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. There are also things the Indian workshop can do that you wouldnt give to most Row tailors. Would W&S be a good option. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. Have a good weekend. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? Watch. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Dear Simon, Follow. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. One of your best suits in my opinion! Really great blog. I am happy to share my experience/pictures in 4-5 weeks when it is complete, if it is helpful? Thanks. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. and lovely to talk to. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. No it would look good without a tie. I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. Thanks for this Simon. I chose the Holland and Sherry 892004 slate blue Harris tweed and plunged in. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. Brilliant. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Was your first experience tweed and plunged in armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder significantly! 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To have comparisons with a & S not many houses still offer a sponge and without. At Whitcomb & Shaftesbury was a lot of interest around my post on the,.

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